Friday, December 27, 2013

2014 - 70th Anniversary of D Day

Next year is the 70th anniversary of D Day and the liberation of France.
Although its too late to book something around the first 2 weeks of June (The official celebration of that famous day) , any other time of year is perfect to Visit Normandy. Beautiful, fascinating Normandie


Friday, December 20, 2013

A Country B&B charm meets sophisticated style (and a serious spa!) - just 20 minutes outside Paris

I have just returned from a weekend at a lovely retreat just outside Paris and I can tell you, this will be my retreat for a few days every time I am in Paris ( which is 3 to 4 times a year).
                                         LES ESTANGS DE COROT
A Country B&B charm meets sophisticated style (and a serious spa!), just twenty minutes from downtown Paris’s  and ten minutes from the Chateau de Versailles.
Les Etangs de Corot is a delightful refuge where guests ( 95 % French clientele)  can relax in country-chic accommodations, explore beautiful nature trails, feast at a gastronomic restaurant, and get pampered in a world-class Caudalie Spa.
Les Etangs de Corot in Ville d’Avray is named for its historic setting, overlooking the ponds and forests that inspired many great painters and writers—notably the forefather of Impressionism, Camille Corot. Owned and operated by Alice and Jérôme Tourbier, who also run Les Source de Caudalie in Bordeaux, the 43-room hotel, combines upscale creature comforts with the charm and character of a weekend country house.
Utterly charming, Alice Tourbier’s smart and original interior design integrates antique furniture and contemporary decorative accents throughout the hotel. In a nod to the illustrious artists who spent time in Ville d’Avray, the guestrooms feature reproductions of 19th-century French landscape paintings. The cozy guestrooms and suites are individually decorated with family heirlooms and flea market finds (including secretary desks and brass lamps) and modern flourishes like bold Farrow & Ball patterned wallpaper and oversize mirrors. The suites feature a separate living room and rustic-chic slate bathrooms. The best guestrooms look out onto views of the forest and the lily pad–covered pond.
There are three in-house restaurants at Les Etangs de Corot, each offering a unique ambiance and menu. The gastronomic eatery Le Corot features large bay windows, high ceilings, chandeliers and dazzling blow-ups of the eponymous artist’s famous paintings. The menu does feature game (such as roasted venison with berries, celery, and quince wine sauce) there are also plenty of lighter options like a flaky John Dory fish flavored with ginger consommé and lime.
Open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, Café des Artistes is a more casual dining option. With mismatched bistro chairs and no tablecloths, the ambiance here is more country-chic than Versailles-glam.. In the summer months, a third dining option is available. Les Paillotes is a lofted covered terrace overlooking the scenic greenery and pond where guests can dine en plein airon summery fare like pea and mint gazpacho, sea bass à la plancha, and strawberries and cream.
Like the Tourbier’s property in Bordeaux (Les Source de Caudalie), Les Etangs de Corot incorporates wine into all aspects of the hotel experience. For example, the long windowed hallway connecting the reception area to the bar/lounge is lined with 2,500 empty green bottles from the family’s château, Smith Haut-Lafitte. Complimentary glasses of wine offered upon arrival (which can be enjoyed at a moment of your choosing) make guests feel right at home, and a unique tap system in the hotel’s open cave next to Café des Artistes allows diners a rare chance to sample grand crus by the glass. But perhaps the most luxurious wine-related indulgences are hotel’s signature spa treatments, which feature products derived from grape vines as well as the grapes themselves. Known for antioxidant treatments and luscious skin-care products,Caudalie Vinothérapie® was developed by Alice Tourbier’s sister, Mathilde Thomas. The original spa is part of Les Source de Caudalie and the newest outpost, at Les Etangs, features a large outdoor hot tub, a water-massage area, and treatment rooms with beautiful views of the natural surroundings.

Couples looking to escape city life for a night or two of R&R without committing to a long haul will appreciate the fresh-air atmosphere, proximity to Versailles, and the luxurious spa treatments.

Tuesday, December 17, 2013

Just Back From Almost A Month in France - Details To Follow

                                        ( Howard in Strasbourg's Petit France District in Strasbourg) 
Christmas In France is always a joy, especially seeing the fabulous windows at the legendary Paris department store - Galeries Lafayette.
But Christmas is really special at the various Christmas Markets in Germany and Eastern France. If you have never been, then you are missing a spectacular celebration. 
In Alsace (Eastern France on the border of Germany) sits the city of Strasbourg. it is one of my favorite places to visit anytime I am in France. It's only a 2-1/2 journey train trip from Paris; an easy one day trip round-trip from Paris. 
Here you'll find many wonderful Christmas Markets selling not only tree decorations, but winter mulled-hot wine and food like local sausages and foie-gras. The city is beautifully decorated and the holiday spirits reins supreme here!
So stand by for more of my trip updates in the next few days.


Monday, November 25, 2013

The Intouchables - A Must See French Film - 2nd Highest Grossing Film in French Cinema History


If you have not seen, the French Film 'The Intouchables' - then you have missed a wonderful film of the last few decades!
In the movie the characters take a Paragliding trip and its something that we can also arrange for you to have the same experience. The location is in the French Alps near Albertville. 


Wednesday, November 13, 2013

That Little Hidden Bistrot in Paris..Not Fancy, But Satisfying.....

Sometimes, I just want to find and relax in a cozy, out of the way Paris bistrot, surrounded by locals enjoying themselves. I am always looking for a place of good food and of good value. A simple but great bistrot meal, is all I ask.
One such place, I can offer is in the Marais district and it near three major museums and thus its called Le Cafe des Musees. Its very near: The Picasso Museum, the Carnavalet Museum and the the Cognacq-Jay museum.
I'm a sucker for confit de canard ( with white beans, of course!)and here is a place that offers one 'to die for"
If you find yourself in this area, please stop by and have lunch or dinner. 
http://cafedesmusees.fr/

Tuesday, November 12, 2013

Recapture Paris of the 18th Century - The Guingette

Guinguettes were popular drinking and dancing establishments located in the suburbs of Paris during the 18th century.At one time there were hundreds, today there are less than 10. 

Today, Guinguettes are an object of nostalgia to recapture those heady days and a marvelous place to return to the lighter times during the mad years of the 1920's.
One such is just a short RER Metro ride away and its called La Guinguette Auvergnate.
http://www.guinguette-auvergnate.fr/

Gray Goose Vodka Ad - a Funny Stab At the French


I will admit, although I think of myself as being French, my being an American does come out in many ways, one is my love for a good Vodka martini and this Grey Goose Vodka ad makes me laugh at myself and the French. I hope you get a laugh out of it too!

Thursday, November 7, 2013

Avignon - Palace of the Popes - a Secret Tour

Avignon Palace of the Popes – A secret (visit in English – Fridays only Euro 35 per person)

Who, as a child or even as an adult, has not dreamed of visiting a castle or even a palace and finding secret passageways, slipping through concealed doorways, and visiting places where the public is not allowed to go! 
The itinerary at Avignon’s Palace of the Popes ( Palais des Papes) is offering not so much a traditional tour as a guided discovery of the palace's secret corners. During the visit, your guide will offer details and anecdotes about the building of the monument, its history and the daily lives of the pontifical sovereigns and other figures who occupied the palace.
This tour will lead you from dark corridors to concealed staircases, from terraces overlooking the town to private chapels. 
There are Many more private tours and sometimes brunch included, but in French only.

Just as a sidenote - The "official" visit of the Palais des Papes is not recommended for anyone of restricted mobility, and that applies even more to the secret tour. The steep, narrow spiral staircases and crumbing steps give you the sense of navigating a building site, though this also lends the tour an exciting, exploratory quality.

Brittany - The Spice Capitol of France

For hundreds of years, the importation of Spices from Indian and elsewhere in the world, was landed in the Brittany city of L'orient. Then the trade fell off at the beginning of the 20th Century. Today, Brittany is starting to produce many of the worlds best known spices, Saffron, the most expensive spice in the world, is know being harvested in Brittany.
Years ago, a Chemist in Brittany, a M. GOSEE blended several of the worlds best spices into a blend that is very popular with professional chefs, especially in Brittany as it goes well with seafood. It's called Kari Gosse and is found not only in markets, but in Chemist shops. Secret ingredients!!!

When you visit Brittany ( or in Paris at one of the major food halls) buy yourself a jar of it. It's marvelous. Or better yet, visit Brittany and one of the many fabulous seafood restaurants and see how its used to perfection by the local chefs. In Lorient, you must dine at Le Jardin Gourmand and taste the many uses of Kari Gosse.

Tuesday, November 5, 2013

Aquitaine - Self Drive Motor Boats



One of my favorite vacation in France is to rent a motor boat and spend a few days on the canals and in one of my favorite regions the Aquitaine ( Southwest France) is a marvelous way to discover this unique corner of France.
The port of Baise is a good jumping off place.
Enjoy the video
No prior experience need to sail these 5 mile a hour cabin cruisers. 

Carte des cours d'eau du lot et garonne

Plats Canailles - In France - Simple and Heavy Dishes



In my travel to France for over 40 plus years and eating everything form Three Star restaurants to no stars and in-between, when i comes down to my favorite type of French food - its what the French call plat canailles - best translated as simple and heavy dishes. Some call it home cooking or peasant food. To me,. its the best food in France, bar none.
One of my favorite places to experience this in Paris is Astier. 
Its everything you think about that a real Paris bistro should be. Red checked tablecloths  original woodwork and cafe curtains - its a picture postcard version of a Paris Bistro, to be sure.
Most clients are local ( as its located in the off Paris sightseeing area of the 11th district. Its been there since 1956 and their menu has changed little. A menu of traditional French classics ( no foolish California Fusion cuisine found here, thank goodness!).
Some of my favorites: marinated herring with warm potato salad, cream of lentil soup with smoked duck breast, rabbit in mustard sauce, entrecote with frites, turbot in Bearnaise sauce and a fabulous cheese tray.
It does not get any better than this.

Friday, August 23, 2013

You Are Only as Happy as The Era You Love - Paris of 50 years ago


As you may or may not know, I have been accused of living in the past more than once from friends and family alike and I say to that..I am guilty and proud to say so!
For me, genuine French food, the food of 50 years ago, when there was great French cooking, not the pretentious silly stuff you'll find today, yes even in my beloved Paris -food that will give your cardiologist cause for concern - serious food - you know great sauces - goose foie gras - beef with marrow - duck with peaches - chicken stewed in Beaujolais - Lobster in Port wine sauce.(.I need to stop!) and huge Baba and my list can go on and on.
Was it decadent? - oh yes! Was it delicious? oh yes! and is it what I want? oh YES!
Here and there the past for me is still alive in Paris and one restaurant ( that has been around for 50 years) is Gourmets de Ternes. is still serving the food they did years ago and it is still great. It's local, not fancy, you are there to eat. No Fusion cuisine, no foam, no stark walls (Phillip or anyone else) and chairs and tables.
This is the kind of place you come to Paris to experience.
But then, don't listen to me, I'm just old fashioned and I'll keep those special and old fashion and great food places to myself.

Tuesday, August 13, 2013

Beaujolais Rediscovered - And I'm Not Talking About Nouveau

Beaujolais is one of the most well-known wines and yet somewhat looked down upon because of the annual frenzy of the 15 minutes of fame of its most famous product - Beaujolais Nouveau, whose quality has always to me and many other wine lovers , has been suspect. 
The Beaujolais countryside ( locate south of Burgundy and north of Lyon) known as La Terre des Pierres Doress, the land of the golden stones - is breathtaking. Not that often visited, because its over shadowed by its famous neighbor of Burgundy, its still worth a trip to these picturesque villages and vineyards, if you have a chance. 
Lunch ( here I go talking about food again ) in one of the many villages have old-fashioned bistros where you can feast on regional specialties like saucisson beaujolais - slow-cooked sausages in red wine. 
What is interesting is today a whole breed of young winemakers are producing exceptional wines and local bistros are highlighting  them. 

Tuesday, August 6, 2013

Tour The Countryside Outside Paris in a Zeppelin





Airship Paris - the country’s first passenger zeppelin opened this summer. There’s only room for 12 passengers, each person getting their own spacious window seat. One-hour flights over Chantilly and surrounding areas is €376. A 90-minute flight over Versailles and the surrounding countryside is €543.
The downside? It takes off from the Aeroport de Pontoise, a good hour northwest of Paris


Friday, August 2, 2013

The Lost Land of Central France - Lozere


Yes, when thinking of France, one tends to think of its 1000 year old culture, heritage, museums, wine and gastronomy and of course shopping, But intense nature? Well,  to be honest, not that often, but located in Central France, an area known as Lozere has a landscape that is breathtaking striking, still pristine, the lowest density of population within France and yet only about 1 or 2 hours from the sea. Slow travel is the key here, a chance to refill your soul from the business and hectic life we all lead these days.
The highlight here is a magnificent Gorges du Tarn ( one of my clients described it as going through Bryce Canyon in the United States). 
Here also you'l find a multitude of wildlife with regional parks hosting wolves, vultures, wild horses and much more. 
Canoeing along the Tarn is a major recreation here and a must for all visitors. 

                                  (The regional Park - Wolves of Gevaudan)


Thursday, July 18, 2013

Parc Monceau - The Most Beautiful Park In Paris

Paris has many beautiful parks with this magical city, but to me the best and not oft visited by tourists is the lovely, peaceful and romantic Parc Monceau in the 8th arrondissment. 
It's one of the most beautiful in the city and that's saying a lot.
It's in an upscale residential area and thus you'll see families using it during the day.
There are numerous statues, a large pond with bird life and surrounding the park are sumptuous mansions.

Thursday, July 11, 2013

Ploumanach - Brittany - Secret Seaside

For its entire length, the shoreline of Brittany is extravagantly indented, with each successive little inlet concealing another wooded cove or sandy beach. It's at it's most spectacular halfway along the northern coast, in the section known as the Cote de Granit Rose or Pink Granite Coast.
Where granite stone elsewhere in the world looks grim and forbidding, here, weathered into soft dreamlike shapes and glowing with ruddy warmth as the sun goes down, it's positively enchanting.

The best hotel to stay in here, is the L'Agapa in nearby Perros-Guirec. 
http://www.lagapa.com/en
(contact me for special Protravel rates ans amenities)

Wednesday, July 10, 2013

Burgundy - Dining in the Middle of a Vineyard

In the heart of Burgundy, at the TABLE COMTE SENARD. For those of you who are who are touring the region or thinking to do so, I can recommend, The restaurant, part of the Aloxe-Corton wine estate, is situated about halfway between Beaune and Dijon. It’s managed by two delightful women, the staff is congenial, and the atmosphere is relaxed and casual.

Travelers will love the regional, traditional menu and the superb wines. After getting acquainted with some of the Burgundy vintages at lunch, it’s fun to visit the 13th century cellars. 

The restaurant is only open for lunch from noon until 2 p.m., and closed Sundays and Mondays. The tasting room is open from 10 a.m. to 11:45 and from 2:30 until 6 p.m.

Website (in English): http://www.table-comte-senard.com/en/index.php#/Accueil
For reservations: table@domainesenard.com

Singer Joyce Jonathan - "Pas Besoin de Toi - (I) Don't Need You



Friday, July 5, 2013

Private garden Lunch in Paris - On The Left Bank

Its very hard to get access to private gardens in Paris, but from May to Sept, from Monday to Friday, you can at the Home of the Latin American center ( used by the diplomatic Latin American Community) . Located at 217 Blvd St Germain in the 7e, here is your chance to enjoy a wonderful lunch or dinner in a private garden.


Wednesday, July 3, 2013

Brittany Art - Parish closes

Brittany’s rural church closes are renowned in France for their charming looks. With their quaint and curious embellishments, they have the power to pull you in, even if you’re not religious. Competition between neighboring parishes could be intense.
The small village of Guimiliau has one of the most spectacular ornamented churchs.

 The Calvary is one of the largest in Brittany and worth a visit.

Tuesday, July 2, 2013

Provence - Local Wines and a Great Meal - Insiders Tip

In one of my favorite little villages in Provence - Pernes les Fontaines - a town of 39 fountains - just outside the town located within a vineyard is a farm/vineyard and restaurant called Domaine de la Camarette. Their small restaurant has a set-price menu of Euro 32, that includes a feast of fresh farm produce, paired with unlimited glasses of their locally grown wines.
Reservations are a must, as looking at the cars parked and their foreign licence plates, Europe has discovered this quaint spot. 

Friday, June 28, 2013

In Brittany - Les Sept-Iles ( 7 Islands) - largest Bird Refuge In France


Those of you who read this blog on a regular basis, known that I love all of France and like having to name your favorite child, is almost impossible, but in this case, as much as I love all the regions of France - when 'put to the wall" I must admit that Brittany is far and away my favorite, for so many reasons.
On the northern coast of Brittany - The Cote de Granit Rose - The coast of the pink rocks ( and YES!, they are pink!), One of my favorite day trips is to take a speed boat or better yet, a Vieux Greements ( old sailing ships) out to sea and venture around the 7 islands (Les Sept-Iles) , just off the coast  near Perros-Guirec. 
Here you find rocky islands filled with a vast multitude of sea birds - Puffins, gannets, shags and small penguins. In most cases, these island are protected, and you many not be able to land, but just sail around them. The trip itself, by boat in sometimes turbulent waters is great fun and OH! the bird life you'll see.


A short film, in French, but you'll get the picture

Tuesday, June 25, 2013

Avignon Day River Cruises on the Mireio


The historic city of Avignon is situated on the Rhone river and near the Durance river and one of the best ways to see the city is from the water. Les Croisiers Mireio has several types of river trips from a 1 hour short trip upstream to see the suburbs of Avignon to daily trips south to Arles - accompanied by a lovely lunch.
http://mireio.net/

Tuesday, June 11, 2013

Lookout Maine - Paris is to Out Do You

All the rage now in Paris is the Gourmet sandwich, done by top of the line chefs and specially take out, food to go places. 


Lobster is one of my all time favorites foods and now in Paris, I can find the traditional Maine Lobster Roll done in the French manner with Breton Lobsters at The Lobster Bar. 
Located in the 1st Arrondissement at 41 rue Coquilliere ( open Tuesday to Saturday from 12 noon to 2:30pm and then 8:00pm to 10:30pm) here is my ideal, a Lovely Paris setting and a fantastic Lobster Roll! Who could ask for anything more?

Thursday, May 30, 2013

Marie Antoinette For a Day - Rowing On the Versailles Place Lake


Next time you visit the Palace of Versailles, you might consider seeing the palace grounds by row boat. 
You can rent them by the half-hour  Euro 11/45 min -Euro 13 or 1 hour - Euro 15

There are also electric carts to do self-tours of the immense grounds. 

Sunday, May 26, 2013

CV-2 Tours of Paris and Outlaying Areas of Paris - a Fun Way to See the City...



"4 wheels under 1 umbrella" ... it is in these terms that Pierre-Jules Boulanger, director of Citroen in 1935, describes the concept of the 2CV in the specification book. Boulanger is a very tall man; he challenged the engineer André Lefebvre and the "golden fingered man" Flaminio Bertoni to design a small car where he could feel comfortable despite his size, and would be able to wear a hat. The bubble shape is implemented, giving the 2CV its iconic shape of "4 wheels under 1 umbrella."
http://www.4roues-sous-1parapluie.com/EN/p-our_story.html

Tuesday, May 21, 2013

As Jay Gatsby said: "You Can't Repeat the Past? ...Why of Course You Can!" ...in Monaco


F Scott Fitzgerald's short life was restless. He never set down roots, instead drifting from glittering 1920s New York and France to Switzerland and the American south in the 30s, with many waypoints in between. Hotels were a defining part of his existence, providing not only temporary homes, but also places to gather material and write.For those who dream of inhabiting his glamorous world, Fitzgerald left behind ample documentation of his whereabouts, including his choice of accommodations. Happily, they all continue to welcome guests – and if some room rates are a bit pricey, all have bars, restaurants and even themed events where you can enjoy the ambiance of the author's era for a few hours.


                                    (The lobby of the Hôtel de Paris, Monte Carlo)
Quick getaways around the Riviera provided diversion in mid-1924, when F Scott Fitzgerald was writing The Great Gatsby while living in St Raphaël. One such stop, Monte Carlo's sumptuous, sprawling, belle epoque Hôtel de Paris, reminded the couple of "a palace in a detective story" – a playful remark that suggests how hotels were always potential sources of material. With nightly live jazz, the hotel's Bar Américain is a good spot to make like a character from Tender is the Night. Hotel guests can access the hotel  private beach for an activity that had begun to enjoy a great vogue during the Fitzgeralds' time in the region: sunbathing.

Friday, May 17, 2013

La Rochelle and Ile de Re - A Little Bit Of Food Heaven Before Heaven



La Rochelle,( a little over 3 hours by TGV from Paris)  is a 10th-century fishing village that by the 13th century had evolved into the hub of France’s wine and salt trades, is an unspoilt gem of a town with an attractive dynamic of modern life layered on rich layers of history.

Still guarded by medieval twin towers (which you can visit, traversing the harbor on a “sea bus”), the Vieux Port is one of the most photographed harbors on France’s Atlantic coast. Once a row of fishermen’s huts, the vibrantly painted clapboard buildings now house alluring boutiques and quaint restaurants which overlook small-yacht traffic.

La Rochelle is rewarding to explore on foot; its cafés offer handy pit stops for a refreshing ice cream or citron pressé.

Known for its seafood, I always on arrival, before I head over the bridge to the Ile de Re, have lunch at my hangout seafood restaurant, Restaurant Andre  http://www.barandre.com/

There is also a 2 Star Michelin restaurant – Richard et Christopher Coutanceau right around the corner from Restaurant Andre. 
The old town of vaulted stone arcades and historic public buildings also features a floating Maritime Museum whose centerpieces include a weather ship, trawler and tug boat; several grand 17th- and 18th-century private mansions; the newly restored Natural History Museum; and a Fine Arts Museum.

Charming by day, the town is beautifully lit by night.


From La Rochelle, you cross a toll bridge to the small, flat Ile de Ré, celebrated by artists for the quality of its light and by  French celebrates ( looking for solitude) and families for its vast cycling trails, this is one of my favorite vacation spots in all of France or even a spot to relax for a weekend from Paris.


Thursday, May 16, 2013

Over 4000 Champagne Producers in France...Where Do I Begin?

Just one hour from Paris is Champagne; a region unlike any other wine region in France.
To visit, where does one start, a few years ago I spent over a week exploring this area and tasting and barely scratched the surface. 
We all know the famous houses located in Reims and Epernay, but the real treat these days is visiting the smaller Champagne houses who are now opening their doors to the public and either don't charge for a tasting or charge a nominal fee.  These smaller producers are passionate about their product and that comes out in talking to them and their wines will make you marvel and you'll never get to taste those here in the USA. 
So check back in the following weeks as I explore some of the smaller producers. 
Near the famous village of Hautvillers, known as the birthplace of Champagne, you must stop at Au 36, a cool designer bar that doubles as a boutique ans serves food too. Have a tasting along with some regional specialties - . The food and wine tasting is about Euro 15 per person. 

Current Menu
- Foam beet / Trout
and Parmesan crumble
- cake potato ham Reims
- Laminated white pudding / Mushrooms
- paté crust
- lentillons Champagne / Reims ham and ham Ardennes
- chaource
- pink macaroon biscuits and jam Raspberry

www.au36.net

Wednesday, May 15, 2013

Wildlife Safaris in France



Today in France, More and more wildlife parks are now proposing lodge stays. 

                                     Right now, there are three.
Zoo de la Fleche - between Tours and Le Mans
Le Pal - In central france near Clermont-Ferrand
Planete Sauvage - In Brittany near Nantes
Click the above to see a French TV channel ( in English) show you the different parks.

Thursday, April 25, 2013

Paris Restaurant Find of the Month, Maybe the Year!! - A Meat and Potatoes Winner - L'Atelier Vivanda

If you are not aware of Parisian John Talbott and his food blog, you are really missing something. His tastes and mine seem to be in lock-step and so I am always checking it out for his newest picks.     http://johntalbottsparis.typepad.com/
Last December ( during my monthly trip In France and Paris) Mr. Talbott waxed ecstatically about a small Parisian, out of the way restaurant in the 16E ( only 20 tables) that served only meat and potatoes. Having tired of the pretentiousness cooking these days in Paris , you know foams, small portions, California cuisine, more look  than taste, so I was intrigued by his comments about L'Atelier Vivanda. It was everything he said and  more and within 1 week, I ate there 3 times. 

The menu is prix-fixe at Euro 39 ( something many bistros in Paris are doing these days) and what what a deal.
There are only three starters  six mains ( meat and chicken) and five different kinds of Potatoes  That's it folks, but what an IT it is!
The meat 3 kinds of steak ( cut from a large hanging roast over the stove), lamb, chicken and a hamburger) that's it! It's cooked in an half-semi enclose kitchen on the main floor and its cooked to perfection  no sauces used, just cooked on a flat top with lots of butter. No need to put salt or pepper on it, its was so perfect, I almost fell out of my chair. I had this huge grin on my face the entire time I was eating it. I am sure the waitstaff ( who by the way) wears large leather butchers aprons with large knives attached to them, thought maybe I was strange... To accompany the meat  one must have the Potato Vivanda - cooked in duck fat! Bien sur! The wine list is small, but well priced and very good!
Its not on the Prix-fixe menu, but also order an appetizer of Iberic Ham that is cut from large Ham ( on a machine that looks like the medieval rack) in front of you...so having this first, you know you are in for a serious meal.
The atmosphere is laid back and cozy, and you'l find mostly locals here and reservations are a must, otherwise, you'll never get in, not with only 20 tables. 

Monday, March 4, 2013

French Countryside Beauty and then the Reality of War


Last December, while staying in the Normandy peninsula of Cotentin, I made a day trip across the lush peninsula from the west coast to the east coast to visit an area that my D-Day paratrooper father fought in; the famous D Day village of Ste-Mere-Eglise. 
During my drive, I passed through a lovely village of Bricquebec and was startled by a large fortress right in the middle of town. It just loomed high above the village square. It was breathtaking, I must say. After a short visit I continued on the Ste-Mere-Eglise. Just outside of Bricquebec I saw what I thought was a partial model plane attached to a high flagpole off to the side of the road. Curious, I stopped and found it was a model of a doomed B-17 bomber that crashed here ( during the D Day invasion) killing all the crew and the locals erected this site to honor them. It was quite emotional to me to be there and then 20 minutes later it got very emotional to see the paratrooper museum in Ste-Mere-Eglise.
The area in the Cotentin is so beautiful and peaceful, it was hard to imagine that a  great battle ever took place here.

Wednesday, February 13, 2013

The Art Within Nice - Night Tour by Tram

There is no better way to get around Nice than on the modern tram and every Friday night visitors can join a guided tour that combines a trip round the city while a guide explains - in French and English - the 13 monumental sculptures, many bewitching illuminated  that spread all over town. Nice already boasts two of France's top museums, dedicated to Matisse and Chagall, and  this 'open-air' museum of contemporary art features the works of international artists such as Ben Vautier, Jaume Plensa and Yann Kersale.
The tram ticket and guided tour cost Euro 10, make your reservations at the Office of Tourism in Nice.

Tuesday, January 8, 2013

Tour de France - Dates Where Hotels Will be Impossible to Get Rooms


I want to let you  know that this year the route of the Tour de France visits some of the most popular places in France. You may want to keep this in mind when booking a France stay. Accommodations will be very hard to find (seriously, almost impossible) and driving in these areas during the Tour will be horrific. Here are the dates and places to be aware of: 
July 2: Nice 
July 3: Marseille 
July 4: Aix en Provence 
July 10: Mont St. Michel 
July 11 & 
July 12: The city of Tours in the Loire Valley
The finale is July 21 when the cyclists all arrive in Paris.